Climbing in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

GRADING
CHART
US - UK - French - Brazil

eXperience
the
SUGAR LOAF

Sugar Loaf is one of the two must-see destinations in Rio. Do you know that it is also a must for climbers and probably the most popular rock-climbing destination in Rio with its more than 50 climbing routes on all four faces?

The routes are of a great variety, from big wall to chimneys, face climbing to dihedrals, aid to crimpers and friction. Multi pitch ascent routes range from 4 to 11 pitches long, averaging five pitches, and starting at 5.6 (US), 4b (French) grading.

Here is a descriptive sample of routes available to experience in the Sugar Loaf:

East face - easy slab routes ranging from 2 - 10 pitches long.

West face – face climbing routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.11. One option is the super classic "Italianos" (5.9), an exposed and spectacular 5 pitch climb that leads to the summit.

South face - 5.10 climbs as well as one 5.7 and one 5.9+ chimneys that are more adventure-style climbs.

North face - the face of hard routes. The easiest one is a 5.11a and it goes up to 5.13s. One can also climb a big wall on this face (A3).

The “Totem” (a pilar on the South face) is another place with several routes ranging from 5.11-5.13.

Aid Routes - The “tetos” (roofs) on the South Face are the school crag for aid climbing with routes ranging from A2-A3+.

From the wealth of routes available, check out below the ones we recommend:

	ITALIANOS The classic route at the Sugar Loaf, the Italianos is a 5.9, multi-pitch face climbing with approximately over 250 meters of climbing vertical ascent to the summit. We take the cable car to Urca Mountain on our return.

	CORINGA Recommended route for beginner climbers with some experience but who are not comfortable in more technical demanding climbs such as the Italianos. A 5.7 route, Coringa is a multi-pitch route that requires some hiking after the end of the climb to summit the Sugar Loaf.

	STOP CHIMNEY For those who are looking to a chimney climb.

Design:Bruno Avila / Developed by Fernando Barroso