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One of the most
traditional mountains in Brazil is the “Dedo
de Deus” (God’s Finger). Located in
the Serra dos Órgãos National Park
(about 1 hour drive from Rio), Dedo de Deus has
a 2-hour approach to the base of the climbs.
The routes range from 5.7 to 5.11. Regardless of
each one you choose to do, good physical endurance
and desire for adventure are a must.
It's a great day, one of the best climbs in Rio!
The peak offers amazing views and a magnificent
summit. |
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ROUTE INFO -
Leste
A professional guide will lead you up.
Grading: 5.7 (US); 4b (UK); 4c (French)
Style: chimney
Number of Pitches: 5
Duration: full day
Level of Difficulty: technically easy but long and
tiring day.
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ROUTE INFO –
Diedro Salomith
A professional guide will lead you up.
Grading: 5.11 (US).
Style: dihedral and face.
Number of Pitches: 5
Duration: full day
Level of Difficulty: difficult.
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CURIOSITIES
The Teixeira route was the first technical route
set up in Brazil, in 1912. It was the first mountain
that was ascended using climbing gear.
The route was set up by residents of Teresópolis
(the local town) after expert climbers from Europe
declared the mountain unclimbable.
The first ascent expedition lasted 7 days.
The equipment used was manufactured by the participants
of the climb. The bolts created by Teixeira for
that climb are the models still in use in Brazil.
The second route set up was the Leste (East) route,
in 1944.
The national park has pristine Atlantic Forest vegetation,
with options including trails, backpacking trails,
waterfalls, and viewpoint areas. The highest elevations
provide incredible views of Guanabara Bay and the
City of Rio, while in lower elevations you have
incredible paths through the rain forest and wildlife.
The national park is home of several peaks, with
10 peaks with elevation greater than 2,000 meters
(6000 feet) and 6 greater than 1,500 meters (4,500
feet). The tallest peak is Pedra do Sino at 2,263
meters (6,720 feet). |
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